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Article: The LOVED Guide to Buying Vintage Right: Part 1 — Exterior Checkpoints

The LOVED Guide to Buying Vintage Right: Part 1 — Exterior Checkpoints

The LOVED Guide · Part 1 of 4

Buying Vintage Right

Exterior Checkpoints
What to Look For Before You Buy

Erin from It Must Be Loved holding a pink Fendi bag surrounded by vintage luxury handbags

A note from Erin

If you've ever wondered how to confidently buy vintage luxury, this is where it starts. I'm kicking off a 4-part series designed to teach you exactly what I look for when sourcing vintage pieces, especially Louis Vuitton.

Because not all vintage is created equal, and knowing what to look for makes all the difference.

Today: Part 1, Exterior Checkpoints. These are the first things I assess before I even consider bringing a bag in.

Inside this guide, I’m breaking down:

  • How to read vachetta leather and what to avoid
  • The most important structural areas of a bag
  • What wear is normal and what isn’t

This is the difference between buying a bag that lasts years and one that doesn’t.

Erin
It Must Be Loved

Part 1

Exterior Checkpoints

Before I source any vintage bag, I check these key areas first. They determine structure, longevity, and overall value. If these fail, the bag isn’t worth it.

01   Vachetta Leather

What to Look For

Vintage Louis Vuitton monogram bag with even honey-coloured vachetta leather patina in excellent condition

✔   Look For

  • Even honey patina
  • Soft, flexible leather
Dry, cracked vachetta leather on a vintage Louis Vuitton bag showing damage to avoid when buying vintage

✘   Avoid

  • Cracking
  • Dryness
  • Splitting
Bottom Line: Dry vachetta means weakened structure. Walk away.

02   Side Tabs & Handles

The Most Important Area

Strong, intact vachetta side tabs on a vintage Louis Vuitton Damier Azur bag

✔   Strong Tabs

  • Firm, intact structure
  • No deep cracks
  • Leather supple at stress points
Cracked and worn side tab on a vintage Louis Vuitton bag, a major structural red flag

✘   Red Flags

  • Cracked tabs
  • Peeling or splitting leather
  • Tabs that flex or feel hollow
These are the highest stress points on the bag. If they’re compromised, the bag won’t last.

03   Piping & Corners

Check the Edges

Corner of vintage Louis Vuitton monogram bag showing light, acceptable wear on piping

✔   Acceptable Wear

  • Light surface rubbing
  • Minor patina at corners
  • Piping still intact
Severe corner damage and exposed piping on a worn vintage Louis Vuitton bag

✘   Walk Away

  • Exposed or cracked piping
  • Deep corner damage
  • Canvas separating at edges
Corners wear fastest over time. Surface patina is fine. Exposed structure is not.

04   Canvas Condition

Canvas Should Feel Structured

Vintage Louis Vuitton monogram tote with thick, structured canvas in excellent condition

✔   Good Canvas

  • Thick and rigid feel
  • Holds its shape when held
  • Print clear and even
Cracked and peeling canvas on a worn vintage Louis Vuitton Damier bag

✘   Red Flags

  • Flimsy or soft feel
  • Warping or bubbling
  • Cracking or peeling surface
Authentic vintage LV canvas is thick and durable. If it feels flimsy, keep looking.

Quick Checklist

Before you buy, confirm all four:

  • Strong, intact side tabs
  • Healthy, even patina
  • Minimal corner wear, piping intact
  • Structured, rigid canvas

If these pass, you’re off to a strong start.

Erin Ashley, founder of It Must Be Loved, with curated vintage luxury handbags

From My Experience

When I source from Japan, the first thing I check is the side tabs.

If those aren’t strong, I won’t bring the bag in, no matter how beautiful it looks.

Because vintage should last.

Erin · It Must Be Loved

Coming Next Week 👀

Part 2: Interior Red Flags

Sticky Pockets, Linings & What’s Fixable

LOVED Club gets first access, always.
Next LOVED Club Bag Drop: April 8th

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Because vintage should last, and so should your finds.

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